OAXACAN SMOKE: PASILLO DE HUMO

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Chef Alam Méndez

Pasillo de Humo is a fine, casual spot located upstairs at the recently inaugurated Mercado Parian in the heart of Condesa. It is an extraordinary Oaxacan ‘antojería’ under the baton of chef Alam Méndez who happens to be the son of Celía Florian, chef/owner of Oaxaca’s renowned 15 Letras. The “pasillo” refers to the smoky passage in that city’s market where tasajo–dried beef is grilled over wood-fueled coals; here, smoke from the grill dissipates in sunny the high-ceilinged space, designed by Paul Curuchet and Luciana de la Garza of Estudio Atemporal. The restaurant, which opens for breakfast as well as comida and cena, offers classic regional specialties such as crispy flat tlayudas, tamales, intriguing egg dishes served in polished clay cazuelas and of course, moles. I love the earthy verdant mole verde, aromatic with minty hoja santa.  The best ingredients are imported from the south, tortillas made by hand. This is a welcome addition to the capital’s under-represented Oaxacan venues.

Pasillo de Humo
Mercado Parian, Nuevo León 107, upstairs, Condesa
Open Monday – Wednesday 9 a.m. – 10 p.m., Thursday – Saturday until 11 p.m., Sunday until 7 p.m.

1st image courtesy @bistrebistro, 3rd image courtesy Queremoscomer.com

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About The Author

Nicholas Gilman is a food writer based in Mexico City; he's author of Good Food in Mexico CIty: Food Stalls, Fondas, Fine Dining.