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The elaborated, chef-created taco is a genre already well known in Los Angeles and Baja California, but little explored in the capital, where the idea of a ‘nice’ taco was not acceptible until recently. But several chefs of restaurants in the ‘Modern Mexican’ fine dining category are now starting to return to this essential format.

Limosneros (see previous post), in the historic center, is set in a beautifully restored and updated 17th century ediface. Young chefs Marcos Fulcheri and Carlo Melendez work together to present a creative, constantly changing menu. They utilize seasonal ingredients, most sourced close to home, preparing both tweaked classics as well as creative plates based on traditional ingredients, even insects. Beautiful seasonal beetles called cocopaches, eaten since time immemorial in rural Mexico, are presented here with “ravioli” of squash blossom flower and fresh cheese. The taco tasting menu that offers six artfully

prepared tacos paired with fine Mexican wines is unique. Limosneros is a place where the history of Mexico can be experienced in the space of a meal. The ribeye tacos, done with Mexican grown Wagyu and augmented with pico de xoconostle, ate, chile cascabel and figs are out of this world.

Allende 3, Centro
Open Monday 1:30 to 10 p.m., Tuesday – Saturday
1:30 – 11 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Tel. 5521-5576

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About The Author

Nicholas Gilman is a food writer based in Mexico City; he's author of Good Food in Mexico CIty: Food Stalls, Fondas, Fine Dining.