TACO OF THE WEEK #4: TACO EL NEGRO @LA NEGRA TAQUERÍA

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Taquería La Negra, a contemporary retro-designed ‘nice’ taco joint, offers tacos in just about every genre known to man. This mission might seem impossible and it is. While pastor, a la parilla and birria tacos are all acceptable, the real standouts are the specials of the house, that is, guisados. The verb “guisar” means “to prepare food” implying more elaboration than the literal “cocinar”. Guisados are stews i.e. meats or vegetables in sauce. They can consist of anything at all, from

chicharrón (pork skin) to eggs, to picadillo to pure vegetables. Any prepared or stewed dish heaped onto a taco is a ‘guisado’. La Negra’s pollo en escabeche negro con chile xcatic y arroz blanco pays homage to the Yucatan’s recado negro. A house-made blue/black tortilla houses smoky, dusky chile sauce bathing tender shredded chicken and white rice. Escabeche means acid so the whole thing packs a tart punch.

Taquería La Negra
Two locations:

Durango #258, Col. Roma
Tel: 55.11.86.31 Delivery service
Open daily 12 – 11 p.m.

Insurgentes Sur #1548, Col. Crédito Constructor (near San Angel/Coyoacán)
Tel: 56.61.74.02 Delivery service
Open daily 12 – 10 p.m.

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About The Author

Nicholas Gilman is a food writer based in Mexico City; he's author of Good Food in Mexico CIty: Food Stalls, Fondas, Fine Dining.