La Beyglería Does Bagels / Tlaco: “Comida Ancestral”/ Havre 77’s Lunch Menu / Páprika Moves

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Havre is chef Eduardo ‘Lalo’ García’s venue for classic French cuisine. It is set in a pretty turn of the 20th century house in colonia Juarez. The menu is comrised of bistro classics such as frissé aux lardon, confit de canard, steak frites and bouillabaisse, all done textbook perfect as only Lalo can do. The raw bar features the best seafood from Baja California and even France itself.

Now, he is offering a 4 course bar menu during lunch hours – 1-5 p.m. – Tuesday – Friday. At $290 it is a great way to sample the superb fare for those on a budget. C’est magnifique!

Havre 77, Calle Havre 77, Col. Juarez, Tel. 5208 1070
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1 – 11 p.m., Sunday, Monday 1 – 5 p.m.

Being a New Yorker, I always subscribed to the narrow-visioned wisdom that bagels were invariably bad outside the Big Apple. I sampled many a poofy, tasteless starchpillow from Ohio to New Mexico.  I was never proven wrong until now, in the Big Taco, where a paisano has recently opened a bagel delivery business. The product tastes, looks, smells and chews like the real thing, and in fact it IS the real thing. Peter Aronson, a transplanted East Coaster, does bagels the old-fashioned way, that is, boiled then baked. These days even in N.Y. these little rolls that probably originated in Poland tend to be oversized, but here they are as I and nostalgic denizens of H&H remember them– about 5″ in diameter, which is eater-friendly. I, being a traditionalist, go for the plain, though I also like poppy seed. Beygleria has no “there, there”, that is, they must be ordered and will be delivered free within the very central metropolitan area (i.e. Roma, Condesa, Polanco etc. minimum of 12) or for a small fee elsewhere. Also available are prepared cream cheeses. Bring your own lox.

See:  FB page (,  phone/Whatsapp number (55-2825-7790) or email

Tlaco, a small locale on quiet calle Atlixco in the Condesa offers what the two handsome brothers who run it call “comida ancestral.” That is to say, simple antojitos, especially tlacoyos, the thick, eye-shaped filled masa snacks of the State of Mexico. They may come filled with spinach,  flor de calabaza, ayocote, a large, sweet bean, mushrooms, whatever is available in the market. Most offerings are vegetarian. Blue corn, prepared by the traditional nixtamalización process, is brought in from Puebla. An inexpensive ‘paquete’ includes a soup and an agua. In addition to the fonda, a pushcart sets up weekdays at the corner of Sonora and Av. Amsterdam, a block from Insurgentes.

Atlixco 155-A, between Alfonso Reyes and Campeche, Condesa
Corner Sonora & Av. Amsterdam, Condesa
Open Monday – Friday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m., Saturday until 4, closed Sunday

This excellent and wildly popular venue has moved from its first home in colonia Juarez to la Roma. It is chef and provocateur Josefina Santacruz’ (see post) venue for tastes from North Africa and beyond. Standouts are a fragrant Iranian rice generously endowed with nuts and dried fruits, rich lamb meatballs from Turkey and the lightly sweet and aromatic Moroccan bastilla – chicken pie – here presented as mini empanadas. Dishes are small and wallet-friendly, meant to be shared. Price PP $200-300
Orizaba 115, between Chihuahua and Álvaro Obregón
Open Tuesday – Wednesday 2 – 11 p.m., Thursday to Saturday until 2 a.m., Sunday until 6.
Tel. 5533 0303

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