SALACIA – SOPHISTICATED ITALIAN IN THE CONDESA
Salacia, which opened its doors at the fall of 2016, is a cozy, unpretentious spot that specializes in seafood Italian-style. Although the recipes are pan-Italian, the menu is northward looking – few Napolitano red-sauces to be found here. The menu of cold and warm appetizers is appealing – don’t miss room temperature pulpo and potatoes, conserved in a light, aromatic vinagrette. Pastas/risottos and main dishes are augmented by a few specials. Pastas are house-made and done correctly al dente; the broad papardelle, is done with the seemingly incompatible combination of shrimp and sausage and it coalesces beautifully. House pasta is tagliolini, a fresh spaghetti-like noodle topped with mixed seafood. Whole fish, whatever is nice at market, is selected by owner, Sergio Demichelis and done simply a la sal or in a white wine/parsley sauce. This is a smart, sophisticated spot whose kitchen needs refining but which show plenty of promise.
Nuevo León 135, Condesa
Tel. 9130 8143
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1:30 – 11:30, closed Monday
OAXACAN SMOKE: PASILLO DE HUMO
Pasillo de Humo was recently inaugurated upstairs at the new Mercado Parian. It is an extraordinary Oaxacan ‘antojería’ under the baton of chef Alam Méndez who happens to be the son of Celía Florian, owner of Oaxaca’s renowned 15 Letras. Named for the smoky passage in that city’s market where tasajo is grilled over wood-fueled coals, the airy, high-ceilinged restaurant, which opens for breakfast and comida only, offers classic regional specialties such as tlayudas, tamales, intriguing egg dishes and moles. The best ingredients are imported from the south, tortillas made by hand. This a welcome addition to the capital’s under-represented Oaxacan venues.
Pasillo de Humo
Mercado Parian, Nuevo León 107, primer piso, Condesa
Open daily 9 a.m. – 7 p.m.
HAVRE 77 OFFERS “MENÚ DE BARRA”
Havre is chef Eduardo ‘Lalo’ García’s venue for classic French cuisine. It is set in a pretty turn of the 20th century house in colonia Juarez. The menu is comrised of bistro classics such as frissé aux lardon, confit de canard, steak frites and bouillabaisse, all done textbook perfect as only Lalo can do. The raw bar features the best seafood from Baja California and even France itself.
Now, he is offering a 4 course bar menu during lunch hours – 1-5 p.m. – Tuesday – Friday. At $290 it is a great way to sample the superb fare for those on a budget. C’est magnifique!