C’EST SI BON: CAFÉ MILOU
Though France has been the culinary direction the Mexican upper class has looked towards since the 19th century, there have never been very good French restaurants here. There are still only a few; Havre 77, La Maison de Famille and Au Pie de Couchon do come to mind. Café Milou is a small unpretentious spot that opened recently that emulates casual Parisian bistro dining and does it very well. Its popularity, spread by word of mouth, has reached the point where reservations are now essential. Classics such as steak tartare, terrine de campagne and leeks in cream are done with finesse. Heartier main dishes might be joues de boeuf—beef cheeks in a reduced wine sauce or lubina with potatoes au gratin. A short wine list is well chosen. Marble tables spill out onto the street and ambience is jovial. Breakfast is offered and is trés Parisienne. Bon appetite!
Av. Veracruz 38, tel. 55 7098-1422 open Monday – Saturday 8 a.m. – 11 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. See Google Maps
Average pp: $500
HAVRE 77 OFFERS “MENÚ DE BARRA”
Havre is chef Eduardo ‘Lalo’ García’s venue for classic French cuisine. It is set in a pretty turn of the 20th century house in colonia Juarez. The menu is comrised of bistro classics such as frissé aux lardon, confit de canard, steak frites and bouillabaisse, all done textbook perfect as only Lalo can do. The raw bar features the best seafood from Baja California and even France itself.
Now, he is offering a 4 course bar menu during lunch hours – 1-5 p.m. – Tuesday – Friday. At $290 it is a great way to sample the superb fare for those on a budget. C’est magnifique!
Havre 77, Calle Havre 77, Col. Juarez, Tel. 5208 1070
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1 – 11 p.m., Sunday 1 – 5 p.m., closed Monday
TLACO: COMIDA ANCESTRAL
Tlaco, a small locale on quiet calle Atlixco in the Condesa offers what the two handsome brothers who run it call “comida ancestral.” That is to say, simple antojitos, especially tlacoyos, the thick, eye-shaped filled masa snacks of the State of Mexico. They may come filled with spinach, flor de calabaza, ayocote, a large, sweet bean, mushrooms, whatever is available in the market. Most offerings are vegetarian. Blue corn, prepared by the traditional nixtamalización process, is brought in from Puebla. An inexpensive ‘paquete’ includes a soup and an agua. In addition to the fonda, a pushcart sets up weekdays at the corner of Sonora and Av. Amsterdam, a block from Insurgentes.
Atlixco 155-A, between Alfonso Reyes and Campeche, Condesa
Corner Sonora & Av. Amsterdam, Condesa
Open Monday – Friday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m., Saturday until 4, closed Sunday