Nexo was very good, but somehow never quite caught on. Sadly, intimate unpretentious bistrots have a hard time capturing the public’s attention in tony Polanco where bigger seems to imply better. Its kitchen went dark a few months ago but it is not really gone. Margaret Chic Kitchen has taken its place.

While co-chef Diego Niño has moved on to greener European pastures, César Vázquez has remained as chef de cuisine and collaborated with Abel Hernandez of Eloise/Loretta fame to refurbish the restaurant’s concept.

Margaret features simple Franco-American cooking that is guaranteed to please those with prentention-phobia. What’s not to like about an oxtail and Angus meatball in a rich, dark stock with foie gras, set over chewy udon noodles - a play on everyone’s favorite comfort food, spaghetti and meatballs. Or well-balanced oysters Rockefeller with a side of upmarket hash browns. There’s even a contender for that fashionable comfort food from north of the border, mac & cheese.

The space has been elegantly simplified by ingenious interior designer Alexandra Medina and the wine list re-vamped.

Prices are reasonable for Polanco, about $500 per person with a glass of wine.

Margaret is the latest in the welcome trend towards more intimate, back-to-basics establishments (see post on Cercano Comedor (permanently closed 2021) at which chef Vázquez also has a hand) to have opened in our city recently. It is a great spot for those who want to avoid the usual Polanco glitz and focus on honest, well prepared food.

Margaret Chic Kitchen
Campos Eliseos 199  view map
Tel. 5281 5903
Open Monday - Saturday 1:30 - 11 p.m., Sunday til 6