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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Taco Time: Guisados @ La Güera de los Estudios Churubusco

Taco Time: Guisados @ La Güera de los Estudios Churubusco

A few of the 15 guisado options

A few of the 15 guisado options

longaniza in fiery salsa

longaniza in fiery salsa

This taquería, literally a hole-in-the-wall of the capital’s Estudios Churubusco, is a legend within a legend. The location, Estudios Churubusco, is Mexico’s premier movie studio, the ”MGM” of our country, where great films have been produced since the Golden Era of Mexican Cinema, i.e. the 1940’s - 1960’s.

The original “güera”, Doña Natividad Soriano, grandmother of the current proprietor, Maria Guadalupe Palacios, started selling tacos out of a basket to movie stars and lesser mortals who worked within these hallowed walls – John Wayne and Pedro Infante amongst them—in 1942.

15 exquisite guisados, several vegetarian— are on offer. Bistec en a dusky chile pasilla sauce and longaniza sautéed in a salsa of fiery chile de arból are knockouts.

La Güera de los Estudios Churubusco
Calle Atletas 2, Country Club Churubusco (Coyoacán)
Open 9 a.m. – 6 p.m., Monday – Friday, until 3 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday

The author’s Godmother, actress Joyce Aaron, who appeared in several Mexican films, poses with an unknown actor at Estudios Churubusco, early ‘50’s. She doesn’t remember if she tried La Guera’s tacos back then, but hopefully will return soon.

The author’s Godmother, actress Joyce Aaron, who appeared in several Mexican films, poses with an unknown actor at Estudios Churubusco, early ‘50’s. She doesn’t remember if she tried La Guera’s tacos back then, but hopefully will return soon.


 The Italian American Dream: A popup dinner honoring immigrant cooking

The Italian American Dream: A popup dinner honoring immigrant cooking

Nom: Hidden and Nameless in Polanco

Nom: Hidden and Nameless in Polanco