The western state of Jalisco, home to Guadalajara as well as Puerto Vallarta and Tequila where the eponymous libation is made, is associated with things quintessentially Mexican. Tequila, mariachi, charros, and “el jarabe Tapatio”, better known as the Mexican hat dance, all claim their origins here. The area’s cooking is based on the things that make Mexican food distinctive: chilies, corn, beans, tomatoes, pork and seafood. Though the cuisine is not as varied that in as states such as Puebla or Oaxaca, what’s good can be great. In addition to traditional fare, a fine dining scene has emerged in recent years headed by young, creative chefs. Mexico’s second city is now an exciting culinary destination that merits a few days visit.

Where to eat:

Alcalde Cocina Franca is perhaps the city’s most sophisticated restaurant. The publicity for chef Francisco Ruano’s venue states that “the philosophy that rules Alcalde’s cuisine and service is focused on the simplicity, sincerity and genuine as key elements.” Indeed, the chef presents  artistically composed salads and main dishes rooted in but not limited by Mexican tradition and utilizing whatever is best in the market.

Av. México No. 2903
Tel. (33) 3615 7400
Open Monday-Saturday 1:30-11p.m., Sunday until 5:30
alcalde.com.mx

Magno Brasserie’s chef, Australian Paul Bentley, is one of the best working in Mexico. His unpretentious flagship offers a constantly evolving Franco-Italian menu that features classic house-made charcuterie such as pâté en croûte, saucisson and rillete de porc. Main dishes are prepared country-French style utilizing slow cooking and a wood-fired oven—I love the “duo de cordero” that does lamb both grilled and stewed in wine. There’s also grilled fish and a few astutely chosen pastas: a recently sampled black orecchiette with octopus fused that Pugliese classic to the north of Italy and was a knock-out. Desserts are French tried-and-true: baba au rhum, tarte au citron and the like would make Julia Child proud.

(CLOSED, 2022)

Hueso—which means ‘bone’ in Spanish—lives up to its name: everything in the jaw-dropping space, located in a ‘50’s era private house, is surrounded and divided by walls made of mosaics of bones reminiscent of a Louise Nevelson sculpture. The dining space is open and airy, the busy kitchen in view. Seating is at one long communal blond wood table. The menu, composed of large dishes meant for sharing, is based on northern Spanish and local traditions has been developed by chef Alfonso Cadena. Croquetas of pork belly and duck ham are outstanding as are the mixed plate ‘surf and turf’ ravioli of lamb and shrimp. And there are indeed bones on the menu: rich marrow served “on the half-shell”. A meal at Hueso, which only opens evenings, is a dining experience not to be equaled.

Calle Efraín González Luna 2061, Colonia Americana
Tel. 33 3615 7915
Open Tuesday – Saturday 7:30 p.m. – 1:30 a.m.
www.huesorestaurant.com

La Docena refers to the oysters (most from Baja California) that can be ordered by the full or half dozen. Chef Tomás Bermudez allows them to take center stage, combining elements of New Orleans and Buenos Aires – simple grilled oysters with clarified butter, shallots and parsley are wonderful. In its relaxed, yet festive space, this hotspot has made it to the Latin American 50 Best list and for good reason. It may seem like a party, but the kitchen turns out surprisingly subtle fare.

São Paulo 1491, Providencia
Tel. 33 3817 2798
Open Monday-Saturday 12:30 p.m.-2 a.m., Sunday until 12 a.m.
ladocena.com.mx

Café P'al Real is a pleasant, and on weekends wildly popular, hot-spot cafe restaurant. It is set in a mid-century house with an airy back yard. Baristas pay meticulous attention to producing superb coffee. It is also a casual dining spot whose kitchen, under the auspices of young chef Fabian Delgado, turns out a combination of tweaked classics and simple, creative fare. The justly celebrated lonche de pancita, a hearty torta of confit pork belly, is the breakfast/lunch of choice. A more challenging yet affordable comida menu is offered daily.

Calle Lope de Vega 113, Arcos Vallarta
Tel. 33 1983 7254
Open Tuesday-Saturday 8 a.m – 11:30 p.m., Sunday until 6 p.m., Monday 8 a.m.-1 p.m.

Birriería las 9 Esquinas, decorated with cheerful Mexican folklore, is a beloved institution and for good reason: they do birria right. The best-known dish from Jalisco is a spicy, soupy stew. Here it’s made with goat, which is marinated in chilies and aromatic spices, wrapped in the leaf of maguey then slow roasted in a pot sealed with corn masa. It is then served bathed in its own broth eaten with a spoon or rolled up into tacos garnished with cilantro, onions and avocado.

Calle Galeana # 388 El Pilón de los Arrieros, Centro
Tel. 33 3613 6260
Open daily 8 a.m. – 11 p.m. (Sunday until 9)

Birriereria Palenque is located upstairs in Guadalajara’s huge Mercado Libertad (AKA San Juan de Díos) and is so popular at lunchtime that several off-shoot  stands are clustered around the “food court” to keep up with the crowd. The word “tatemada” means charred, and it is this crust that gives this birria its distinctive smoky flavor.

Calle Dionisio Rodríguez 52, La Perla
Open approximately 8 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Karnes Garibaldi not only does the best carne en su jugo (meat cooked in its own juice, a typical dish of Guadalajara), they have the Guinness Record as the world's fastest restaurant: 13 seconds and a half from kitchen to table. Their menu also includes guacamole, beans with corn, quesadillas and a variety of typical desserts. There are several branches.

Calle Garibaldi 1306, Santa Teresita
Tel. 33 3826 1286
Open Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Friuday, Saturday until midnight

The torta ahogada (drowned sandwich) is another iconic plato tapatío.  Don Ignacio, of Tortas Ahogadas El Güerito, has been putting these tortas together in this atmospheric spot since 1959 and shows no signs of slowing down. Carnitas, which is confit of pork, is heaped on a birrote, as the crunchy roll is called, and bathed in a piquant sauce fragrant with clove, cinnamon and cumin. More warm sauces, spicy and less so, are served on the side. These are a mess to eat but well worth the effort.

Calle Pino Suárez 279A, Zona Centro
Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

El Gallo Altanero is a laid-back multi-level bar, bobo as the French like to say, that is dedicated to all things agave. The tequila menu is impressive; light food is offered.

 Calle Marsella 126, Col Americana
Tel. 33 1523 2574
Open Wednesday – Sunday, 6 p.m. – 1 a.m. (closed Monday, Tuesday)

Where to stay:

Casa Habita (aka Casa Fayette) is a 37–room boutique hotel set in an old mansion which sits next to a modern, nine–story annex. The vintage/contemporary fusion is unique in the city. There is little competition in town for boutique hotels, making this  the best option for those seeking intimate, homey lodgings. The hotel is located in Colonia Lafeyette, an upscale residential area whose tree–shaded streets are lined with private homes. The older structure of Casa Habita, built in the 1940s, falls into the modernist, post–deco category. Habita Group, the hotel’s owner, is known for refashioning historic buildings—amongst others, they own Mexico City's Downtown, set in a former colonial palace; Condesa DF, a redone 1920s mansion; and Acapulco's Boca Chica .

Calle Miguel Lerdo de Tejada 2308, Colonia Americana
Tel. 33 3679 2000
http://www.casahabita.com/