Notes From San Miguel de Allende
ESPAÑOL
When I first visited San Miguel de Allende 30 years ago, arriving by a snail-paced train, it was a tranquil, hard-to-reach pueblo, “discovered” by foreigners as early as the 1930’s (my parents spent the summer of 1949 there) but relatively unchanged since mid-century. As far as eating went, street food was great but “fine dining” was limited to a handful of dependably mediocre institutions. Then sometime after the turn of the 21st century, international ballyhoo took effect and the town exploded. Upscale visitors from Texas and Mexico City arrived in droves. Real-estate prices skyrocketed; traffic became insufferable. Although the powers that be insisted it be called a “city", the dining scene remained decidedly provincial. Charmed by lovely colonial patios and panoramic views, it was easy to imagine you were eating well. Locals who knew better stayed home. In the last few years, however, a number of very good (and a few not so) chef-driven places have opened their colonial doors. I’ve written about the still fine Aperí, and must mention lovely Bulla, a branch of one of Mexico City’s best Spanish tabernas. The former town is now something of an upscale dining and hotel mecca; its physical charm is intact despite being surrounded by terrifying malls and umpteen gated communities. And no, it’s not the gringos’ fault. But we’ll save that discussion for a rainy day (which almost never besets sunny San Miguel). Recently I was invited to visit an amazing ranch as well as a new Indian venue. And I revisited an old, comforting, favorite.
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The mezcals at Rancho Cañada de la Virgen
Rancho Cañada de la Virgen - Udderly Contented Cows
Cañada de la Virgen is an organically maintained ranch near San Miguel whose owners’ goal, already well realized, is to restore native flora and fauna to the previously barren area with the hope of educating nearby farmers whose lands are still sadly depleted due to outmoded farming techniques, over-grazing and water-guzzling crop choices. The farms are managed respectfully and sustainably with soil that is free of herbicides, pesticides, artificial fertilizers or any other synthetic additives.
Lovely Atzintli Bar
The zaftig, disease-free cattle enjoy the abundance of natural and varied grazing, are cared for with minimal stress and live a healthy, pen-free life – before surrendering to the grill as gourmet beef, dry-aged for 30 days, 100% grass and agave-waste fed. It’s available for sale - see the website.
In addition, a couple of very good, mild mezcals are produced using local varieties of agave that were planted by the owners and almost miraculously restore the native greenery by sucking moisture out of the air, helping to aerate and hydrate the soil and reactivating healthy plant growth—it’s a win-win situation. The mezcals can be sampled in town at the recently inaugurated Bar Atzintli, whose roof terrace affords a magnificent view of town.
The pyramid located within Cañada de la Virgen
In addition, the ranch surrounds a restored pre-Hispanic pyramid, property of the state; it’s the most important in the region and worth a visit.
Note that guided visits, catered meals and events can be arranged.
Bar Atzintli
Sollano 18, open daily at 4 p.m.
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Ghar Restaurant - Indian with a twist
Good Indian kitchens are finally appearing in Mexico among our ever-more diverse gastronomic options (see my review of Maza Bistrot). And it makes sense that we should embrace Indian culinary traditions here, as Indian and Mexican cooking are kissing cousins. The philosophy behind these two aggregations of regional cuisines is similar: the greatest dishes in both are amalgamations of many ingredients that are magically transformed, alchemically, into new flavors. The sum of the parts stands alone. There is no doubt that masalas and moles invite comparison.
Elegant Indian fare at Ghar
Founded by Gujarat-born chef Hiran Patel who directed several restaurants in Chicago, Ghar draws culinary inspiration from various regions of the Indian subcontinent with a focus on integrating old-world flavors with new-world ingredients and techniques. The chef de cuisine, Mauricio Hernandez, utilizes and adapts local ingredients whenever possible—case in point, pakora made with nopales, a great idea that I’ve never seen in India but that works beautifully. The tandoor-grilled lamb chops are succulent and aromatic. Tender Baja mussels in a fiery Goan ‘Vindaloo’ sauce hit all the marks. A creamy korma utilizing setas is a great vegetarian option. The restaurant is located in a patio within the pretty, colonial Casa Hoya. Prices are more than reasonable.
Mesones 14, Centro
Open for brunch Wednesday – Monday, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., lunch/dinner 2 – 11 p.m., closed Tuesday
www.ghar.mx
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Los “burritacos”
Los Burritos de San Miguel - Just like grandma used to make
I never miss a chance to visit Los Burritos and have been doing so since owner Selena started selling flour tortillas out of her doorway more than 30 years ago. Eating here is decidedly comforting. And cheap. Be advised that these are not the California-style everything-and-the-kitchen-sink bombs that became popular north of the border, but are typical tacos norteños, guisados served in house-made flour tortillas. The fillings are simple, many are vegetarian. Recipes for such favorites as papas en salsa verde, mole rojo and picadillo still taste as if they’re straight from an abuela’s kitchen.
Hidalgo 23, Centro
Open Monday – Saturday 9:30 a.m. – 5 p.m. (closed Sunday)
