Painting the Town Red: Old Time Cantinas & Bars
El Tio Pepe photo: Juan de Díos
The cantina is Mexico’s answer to the British pub. It has, since the 19th century, been an essential element of urban Mexican life. Despite the arrival of fast-food chains, cocktail bars and other contemporary hangouts, old-style cantinas have remained popular and have had a resurgence in popularity in recent years. There are lots of historic cantinas and bars with great old-time atmosphere, especially in the Centro, some serving food or free appetizers; the opening date, in parentheses, follows the name.
Cantina La Montañosa (1948)
This traditional cantina serves free botanas, small dishes that are often quite filling, to accompany the drinks. With one drink you are offered a mouthwatering range of seafood dishes such as ceviche, avocado stuffed with tuna or huachinango a la Veracruzana (there is a two-drink minimum for all-you-can-eat). Lunch can be had standing at the bar or seated in the dining room upstairs.
Calle Palma, corner of Cerrada de 5 de Mayo, Centro (see map)
Sunday – Thursday 9 a.m. – 1 a.m., Friday, Saturday 10 a.m. – 3 a.m.
El Tio Pepe. photo: Juan de Díos
El Tio Pepe (1870)
In Mexico City many old places have been preserved simply because nobody ever thought or had the resources to change them; they are authentically old and do not have a Disney-fied restored look. This old cantina, with its original Art Nouveau bar has been the scene of many political discussions over the years. Although discovered by the foreign/hipster crowd, it conserves its local, mixed feel. If you’re lucky you’ll get a booth.
Independencia 26, Centro (see map)
Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. – 11 p.m., closed Sunday
La Faena (1954)
The atmosphere is decidedly shabby at this fun and funky cantina which houses a “Museo Taurino”- bullfighting costumes and ephemera are displayed in dusty cases. Live music is occasionally offered.
Venustiana Carranza 49 Centro (see map)
Open Sunday – Thursday 1 – 8 p.m., Friday, Saturday until 10:30
Salón Corona
Salón Corona (1928)
Beer is cold and on tap (de barríl) here; it’s one of the few surviving cervecerias in the Centro. Tacos and seafood cocktails are served at the stand-up only bars in front. There is also a large, brightly lit dining room hosting a mixed crowd (in class and age) that has re-discovered this festive place. Which will soon celebrate its 100th birthday.
Bólivar 24, Centro (see map)
Open Sunday – Thursday 10 a.m. -11 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m.
The author at Bar Opera
Photo courtesy El Universal
Bar La Opera (1870)
How can we not mention the famous Bar La Opera with Pancho Villa’s bullet hole in the ceiling? Belle Epoque has never been “beller”. This has been an obligatory stop for generations of visitors to the capital. There is a menu but we suggest you stick to appetizers, as the food is just standard.
Cinco de Mayo 10, Centro (see map)
Open Monday-Saturday 1-6 p.m., Sunday until 6
Salón París (1950)
A neighborhood tradition, Salón París recently moved from its original location on Santa Maria’s Zócalo; thankfully, it conserves its old-time ambience. It is supposedly where ranchera giant José Alfredo Jiménez got his start singing in public. It is a favorite with locals and still occasionally offers live traditional music. Free botanas come with the drinks.
Torres Bodet 152, (see map)
Santa Maria la Ribera
Monday - Saturday 12:30 - 10 p.m., Sunday until 8
Salón Covadonga (1940)
This traditional club for Spanish ex-patriots became, a few years back, a hangout for neighborhood artists. Nevertheless, the old-timers can still be found shmoozing in the vast, fluorescent-lit room. There is a good wine list, but the food is mediocre at best. Stick to basic tapas like bocadillos, tortilla española, or calamares a la Romana.
Puebla 121, Colonia Roma (see map)
Open Monday-Saturday 1p.m. – 2:30 a.m., Sunday until 7 p.m.
La Riviera del Sur
La Riviera del Sur (c. 1960)
A few years ago, the Riviera was a bit down-in-the-heels, one of the few traditional cantinas left in la Roma. It wisely remodeled itself as “post-modern” in order to attract fresh clientele with a face-lift, reopening to much acclaim. Little has changed: décor and music remain soothingly retro. The kitchen offers well-prepared, spicy dishes from the Yucatan.
Chiapas 174, Roma Norte (see map)
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1 p.m. – 2 a.m., Sunday, Monday until 12 a.m.
