The renaissance of the once genteel but down-on-its-heels Colonia Roma doesn’t cease to astound. New restaurants are popping up like autumn chantarelles in the Auvergne, so fast I can’t keep up with them. The latest at the top of my pile of business cards is El Beso Huasteco, a friendly and pleasingly unpretentious place on Calle Córdoba. The young owners have refurbished a Porfiriato mansion with a mish-mash of early 20th century splendor, patterned mosaic floors, ornate cornices and all. They’ve filled it with colorful for-sale art and tchotchkes, which give it a festive air. The sunny rooms open to a central patio full of plants and buena onda (good vibes).

The menu proffers Mexican lunchtime comfort foods: Antojitos (corn-based dishes) are the order of the day here. Many recipes come from the Huasteca region in north-eastern Mexico, hence the restaurant’s name. Chef and partner Alfonso Girón emerged from his kitchen one recent sunny afternoon for a brief interview. He explained that he “…offers dishes people think of as common or ‘street foods’, keeping prices accessible. We don’t try to re-invent or deconstruct, but simply to present them in an attractive way, respecting Mexican tradition”. There’s nothing better than a classic when it's well made. “No foams or drizzles here”, he chuckles.

My favorite appetizer is ‘bocoles’, a variation on the classic gordita. Here they're golden and crusty outside, steamy soft and redolent of concentrated corn inside. Filled with chilied egg, chorizo or chicken and slathered with the circus-colored salsas handily provided, Mexican botanas don’t get much better.

Classic pozole rojo is served with all the trimmings. It is textbook good: sexy rich red and just picante enough. The less often seen green pozole is subtle, the pork broth enhanced by nutty pumpkin seed used as a thickener.

The selection of seldom seen tamales is intriguing: adobo de puerco is one of my favorites.

Open day and night, El Beso Huasteco is a good option when you want something down to earth, inexpensive, but handled with care.

El Beso Huasteco
Colonia Roma Córdoba 146 (South of Av. Alvaro Obregón) see map
Open:Monday- Friday 8:30 a.m. -10 p.m., Saturday, 10-10. Closed Sunday
Tel. 5574 6166

READER'S COMMENTS:

Don Cuevas May 5, 2011
Thanks for the report. We are always happy to have more good eating places for Colonia Roma. Can you tell us a general price range? (I did note "inexpensive".) Saludos, Don Cuevas

Nora May 8, 2011
Con tantos restaurantes abriendo en la Roma, siempre es bueno tener alguna recomendación. Suena bien, habrá que ir a probar! Gracias Nick

Anonymous May 9, 2011
I'm always grateful for a new post about a great new restaurant. A question for you Nick (and anybody else out there); where can I find a decent bagel in this city? I don't even need a great bagel, just a decent bagel. I've tried Karma Bagels in Condesa (NOT) and the standard packaged bagels they sell in the supermarket (bad). Any feedback would be appreciated!! Gracias por su ayuda!! Alan

Nicholas Gilman replies: Alan, you will certainly NOT find a great bagel ANYWHERE outside of New York. The only decent ones we have found here are from Trattoria della Casanuova, (Av. de la Paz 40, San Angel tel 5616-2288) but I'm not promising miracles.

Anonymous May 13, 2011
Well thanks Nick! I appreciate the recommendation. Actually, my partner was just in LA on business and brought back a whole slew of bagels from 'The Original Brooklyn Water Bagel Co.' (Larry King's a part owner). They were amazing, and can stand up to a NYC bagel any day. But I agree, nothing like a NYC bagel. And San Angel is closer than LA or NYC!! Saludos, Alan

Jothompson May 17, 2011
yes, I would really like to know roughly what the prices are like here, I tried to find out online, but no luck, Many thanks, Jo

Nicholas Gilman replies: The prices are very reasonable...main dishes are under $100. So I would put it in the inexpensive category.

Anonymous November 22, 2011
Thanks for recommending this place. Very good food, charming atmosphere and very friendly staff.