Pinche Gringo BBQ: So Far from God, So Close to the U.S.
By Ulysses de la Torre
Special to Good Food Mexico
American barbecue is one of those cuisines that demands a full declaration of street credentials before writing about it, so let’s do that first: my father’s family is from Texas and over the years I’ve managed to eat my way through the major gastrohubs of that state with the high point being the Wednesday night $1.95 beef rib special at the Rib Hut in El Paso. I have never set foot in St. Louis, Memphis or Kansas City, and the last time I was anywhere in the Carolinas was about 20 years ago as a college student.
With that said, Pinche Gringo is only worth it if you arrive early enough to beat the queue, which means before 1:30. If you expect to find yourself in Texas, the Carolinas or anywhere that isn’t Mexico City, you will be underwhelmed. But then who else in Mexico City offers what Pinche Gringo has? The answer is nobody. So if you can’t wait for your next trip north to get a barbecue fix, then Pinche Gringo should hold you. I’ve been twice now and tried all the mains and sides, so this is as comprehensive a review as it gets.
The best tasting meat is the brisket, and I say that as a rib man. In a phrase, the brisket makes me feel sorry for vegetarians and realize that asceticism was not meant for this lifetime.
This is not to say that the ribs, sausage or pulled pork are subpar; just that each of those left my palette wanting in a way the brisket did not.
The best tasting side dish is the cole slaw, owing to an extra zing somehow lacking in the other sides. Again, nothing wrong with the potato salad, beans or mac and cheese – they’re all functional, but I cast my lot with the slaw.
The only benefit of the family portion is larger side dish helpings in one-liter containers. So if you want more beans, then by all means order the family package. Otherwise, there’s no added value there without Pinche Gringo first knocking 150 pesos off the price.
The Verdict: On a 1-10 scale, I'd give Pinche Gringo an 8, but I wouldn’t hesitate to downgrade that the moment any viable alternative shows up on the scene. Many have opened since PG started smoking but none compete. I’ll go back, the next time I can get there by 1:30, have a jones for barbecue and have no immediate plans to be north of the border—circumstances which will probably happen sooner rather than later. And the enormous new branch in the nether areas of Polanco should eliminate waiting time.
Pinche Gringo BBQ
Cumbres de Maltrata 360, Colonia Navarte
Open Tuesday to Friday 1-7 p.m., Friday Saturday Sunday 12 - 7 p.m.
Tel. 6389-1129
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Branch: Pinche Gringo Warehouse
Lago Iseo 296, Colonia Anahuac (Alto Polanco)
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Ulysses de la Torre previously guest wrote a three-part series reviewing Argentine steakhouses in Mexico City. This review was first published in 2014
