While we’d like to think that there are fine ambassadors of every branch of Mexican regional cooking in the capital, that of Michoacán has always been under-represented. Chef Fernando Martínez, who also runs the kitchen at the uber-cool Oaxacan, Yuban, has decided to do something about that. His new venue, Senerí, located upstairs in the Mercado Roma, does not offer classic dishes of the region, at least not done in the traditional manner. As in his revamped Yuban, he utilizes ingredients of the area, inventing new plates while touching on tradition. This is Modern Mexican cooking at its best. A fair example, from the brief but intriguing menu, is an appetizer comprising slices of marinated trout from Zitácaro with mayo of the local smoky chile perón and caviar from the fish itself.  Or there’s a generous chunk of juicy duck breast, lightly smoked, ‘lacquered’ with a toasted mole of capón plated with a bit of pureed butternut squash. These are all elements of the state’s gastronomy, astutely reassembled, artfully presented and perfectly cooked. The space is airy, jazzy soundtrack cheerful. Pricing is fair as well.

Senerí (closed)
Querétaro 225, 1st floor, Colonia Roma; view map
Tel. 5564 8989
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1:30 – 11 p.m., Sunday until 6, closed Monday