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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Around Town: Casa Virginia, Paprika, Guzina Oaxaca and Sud 777

Around Town: Casa Virginia, Paprika, Guzina Oaxaca and Sud 777

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Here we review, in short, recent standout openings.

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Casa Virginia is chef Mónica Patiño and her daughter Micaela Miguel's latest venture, located above Delirio at the corner of Alvaro Obregón & Monterrey. The Porfiriana house is beautifully restored and home-style Franco-Mexican food is reminiscent of a Southern French country kitchen. Dishes are copious and good for sharing, making for a jolly convivial ambience. Prices average $400-500 PP.

Monterrey 116, corner of Alvaro Obregón, Colonia Roma; View map
Tel. 5207 1813
Open Tuesday - Thursday: 1:30 - 11 p.m., Friday, Saturday: 1:30 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. Sunday: 1:30  - 6 p.m.

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Sud 777
The southern part of the city doesn't house many 'high end' establishments I find recommendable. An exception is Sud 777. Chef Edgar Nuñez' pretty venue overlooks a treelined landscape which gives the impression of being far removed from the locura of the city. His menu features creative cooking based on Mexican and Spanish traditions. Such tweaked classics as huevos rotos, sweetbreads in a reduction of their juices, rock cod with clams and an arroz caldoso of duck are artfully prepared and beautifully presented. Price PP $500-600

Blvd. de la Luz 777, Alvaro Obregón, Jardines del Pedregal, view map
Tel. 5568 4777
Open Monday - Saturday 8 a.m. - 12 a.m., Sunday 9 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

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Guzina Oaxaca
Guzina (which means 'cocina' in the Zapotec language) is chef Alejandro Ruiz, of Casa Oaxaca fame's venue for great Oaxacan cooking. It's worth a visit to sample creative twists on the region's famous moles as well as fresh market based cooking. Price PP $500 200

Mazaryk 513 between Sóctrates and Platón, Polanco; view map
Tel. 5282 1820
Open Monday - Saturday 8 a.m. - 11 p.m., Sunday until 6.

 

Páprika Cocina de Especias (closed December 2018) is chef and provocateur Josefina Santacruz' new venue for tastes from North Africa and beyond. Standouts are a fragrant Iranian rice generously endowed with nuts and dried fruits, rich lamb meatballs from Turkey and the lightly sweet and aromatic Moroccan bastilla - chicken pie - here presented as mini empanadas. Dishes are small and wallet-friendly, meant to be shared. Price PP $200-300

 

Orizaba 115, Colonia Roma; view map
Open Tuesday - Saturday 2 - 11 p.m., Sunday until 6.
Tel. 5533 0303

Taqueando: The Centro

Taqueando: The Centro

From Sea to Shining Sea : De Mar a Mar (permanently closed)

From Sea to Shining Sea : De Mar a Mar (permanently closed)