A Room with a View: Mexico City from Above
The combination of a beautiful view and great food is hard to find. Too often I’ve tolerated ‘meh’ meals backed by spectacular vistas, from the rooftops of Paris to the docks of Singapore. We spent one Fourth of July on the 50th floor in a mid-town Manhattan clip-joint downing watery martinis accompanied by cheese hors- d’oeuvres – Miss C. remarked that she was sure they were done with “Whiz, right out of the jar” and indeed they were. The managements of such venues tend to feel that the sight of a city or seascape is enough to warrant high prices and lack of attention (to put it kindly) in the kitchen.
Mexico City is replete with jaw dropping views, but only a few eating or drinking establishments have attempted to exploit them. And none have served even near decent fare. Nowadays, however, with intense competition and, perhaps, a more demanding public, there are exceptions to the rule. I can heartily recommend a number of bars suitable for a drink and snack. And a couple where a full meal is worth the price of admission.
El Balcón del Zócalo
El Balcón del Zócalo
El Balcón offers a breath-taking panorama of our capital’s Plaza de la Constitución, popularly known as the Zócalo; the Metropolitan Cathedral sits proudly at center stage. The good news is the ambitious but approachable menu realized by chef José Antonio Salinas. The chef offers tweaked Mexican classics and more elaborate dishes that explore the gastronomic vanguard but don’t stray too far from tradition. It’s a perfect place to take out of town guests and to remind us residents of the stunning visual grace our glorious city provides. We can almost bring back the “Paris of the new world” moniker that our capital once bore from this eagle’s perch. Reservations are suggested.
6th floor of the Zócalo Central Hotel 5 de Mayo 61, Centro Histórico View map
Tel. 51 30 51 30 Ext. 6775 y 6776
Open daily, 7 a.m. – 11 p.m.
Restaurante El Mayor, however, doesn’t cut the cake. Situated atop a colonial edifice El Mayor overlooks the northeast side of our capital’s Zócalo. The view is spectacular, encompassing the ruins of the great pre-conquest pyramid of Tenochtitlán, the famed Templo Mayor, in its entirety. Enter through the Librería Porrúa and take the elevator to the 2nd floor. Doors open to a broad terrace, a nicely appointed space with white tablecloths and simple, modern furniture —all very appealing—but the food is bland and overpriced. My advice is to turn right as you exit the elevator. There’s a café in one corner of the terrace where you can order coffee and a sandwich, enjoying the same fabulous view for a fraction of the price.
Republica de Argentina 15 (corner of Justo Sierra) see map
Tel. 5704-7580
Open daily from 1:30 to 7 p.m.
The Torre Latinoamericana, once the symbol of modern Mexico, and the city’s tallest building
Miralto
The Torre Latinoamericana was, from its completion in 1956 until, perhaps, the 1990’s, the tallest building in Mexico and a symbol of the nation’s entry into the modern era. Back in the late ‘80s, I discovered the amazing wrap-around bar on the 41st floor, whose fabulous décor had not been touched since its inception: the mid-century black, chrome-rimmed Bakelite tables and bars and moderne carpeting were frozen in time. Sadly, powers-that-be with exceedingly bad taste thought to re-do the spot some 20-odd years ago and it all went to the trash to be replaced with plasticky airport-lounge décor. The current manifestation is more tastefully done with a nod to retro; it’s a great place for breakfast. As the song goes, “on a clear day, you can see forever…”
Torre Latinoamericana, Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas, piso 41, Centro
Tel. 55 1387 6937
Open Tuesday – Thursday, 9 a.m. – 11 p., Friday, Saturday 9 a.m. - 12 a.m., Sunday, Monday 9 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Terraza Cha Cha Chá
Cha Cha Chá may have a silly name but it is a cool spot. It is emblematic of the restauration and renaissance happening around “Revolución”, an area for decades left to slow decay, and now a popular daytime strolling destination: the monument itself can be climbed for amazing views of the city though the uber-deco Frontón México has been converted into a tacky casino—Jai Alai is no longer happening there. At Cha Cha Chá, though there’s no dancing, evenings are lively. The spacious, high-ceilinged dining room, located on the sixth floor of the corner building, opens to an airy terrace with a view of the monument and plaza. Food is fair – stick to drinks and a light snack.
Avenida de la Revolución 157, at the southeast corner of the plaza, 6th floor see map
Tel. 55 5705 2272
Open 1 p.m. - 1:30 a.m. Tuesday - Saturday, Sunday until 6, closed Monday
A tostada of soft shell crab at Arango, with a view of the Monumento de Revolución
Arango Cocina de Raíces
Arango, which takes its name from Don José Doroteo Arango Arámbula, better known as “Pancho Villa”,is a more sophisticated version of the aforementioned Cha Cha Chá and is located atop the same building looking over the Monumento de la Revolución. Chef Alejandro Cuatepotzo takes his menu seriously and produces well-realized Modern Mexican dishes.
Avenida de la Revolución 157, at the southeast corner of the plaza see map
Tel. 55 5705 5034
Open Monday – Friday 1:30-11_30 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. -11:30 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
A sushi at Ling Ling on the 56th floor
Ling Ling by Hakkasan
Perhaps the closest one can get to the heavens in the capital is Ling Ling, perched on the 56th floor of the recently erected Ritz-Carleton, which sits near the entrance to Parque Chapultepec. The space is beautifully designed by Sordo Madaleno; arched ceilings create a dizzying sense of space and power. And the 180-degree vista, focusing on the park way below is unique. The menu is pan-Asian, a term that gives me pause as it often implies “jack-of-all-trades/master-of-none” or as we Yiddish speakers say, “ongepotchket”. This is the case here: simple Japanese snacks such as nigiri and temaki are good, but when the kitchen veers into Chinese or Thai territory it flounders. Prices are as sky high as the dining room. So I recommend Ling Ling for a celebratory drink and a snack.
Hotel Ritz-Carlton
Paseo de la Reforma 509, piso 56 see map
Tel. 55 3279 9204
Open daily 1 p.m. – 12 a.m.
The King Cole Bar in the St. Regis
King Cole Bar
If it’s old fashioned glamour you want, this is it. Though not as high-in-the-sky as others, the indoor-outdoor bar affords sweeping views of the Reforma, specifically, the Diana fountain. Its name recalls the iconic singer/pianist and the martinis (as well as the broad opening hours) conjure those 1930’s cinematic sleuths, Nick & Nora Charles.
Hotel St. Regis, Reforma 439 see map
Tel. 55 5228 1818
Open 11 a.m. – 2 a.m., Monday – Saturday, until 1 a.m. Sunday
Supra, in La Roma
Supra Roma Rooftop
Supra sits “on top of the world” in chichi Roma. It occupies the terrace of a high-rise on the area’s main drag, Av. Álvaro Óbregon, an eye-sore from the outside built at the time when little thought was given to historical preservation. But the 360 degree views are magnificent, and a light menu designed by chef Josefina Santacruz offers tapas-style, shareable snacks.
Av. Álvaro Obregón 151, Roma Nte.
Tel. 55 3270 4367
Open Tuesday 1 p.m. – 12 a.m., Wednesday – Friday 1 p.m. – 1 a.m., Saturday 11 a.m. – 1 a.m., Sunday, 11 a.m.- 12 a.m., closed Monday
