Tortas in la CDMX
The torta, Mexico’s version of the sandwich, is the quintessential comida capitalina – fast food that is both European and truly Mexican. According to legend, tortas were “invented” at the turn of the 20th century by one Sr. Armando, an Italian immigrant, as his riff on the Italian panino, adapting it to available ingredients like roast pork and locals’ penchant for avocado and chili. His family restaurant still exists, although I find their tortas insipid – perhaps Don Armando took the recipes to the grave with him.
Prepared by a specialist called a tortero, a soft roll called a bolillo or telera is filled with a wide range of ingredients, popular choices being milanesa (pounded and fried pork, beef or chicken, pierna (roast pork) choriqueso (cheese and sausage), bacalao, (salt cod) and pavo (turkey) but the variety is endless. A shmear of refried beans is applied then the garnishes which can include tomato, onion, avocado, lettuce and, of course, jalapeño or chipotle chili. Pambazos, filled with chorizo and potato, dunked in salsa and fried are a variation that can be good if a bit on the heavy side. Even weightier are guajalotas—tortas of tamales – starch-on-starch, but delicious and much revered in the capital.
A turkey torta at Casa de Pavo
Tortas are now found all over the country and one of my favorite places to eat them is at Tortitlán in San Miguel de Allende - they do a marvelous torta de pierna horneado. In Puebla, tortas are called “cemitas” and are larger and sometimes filled with jellied pig’s feet or tongue, while all over Guadalajara tortas ahogadas, “drowned” in salsa and served with a spoon are de rigeur - Tortas Ahogadas El Güerito, is my favorite in that city. All the above regional variations can be sampled in la CDMX.
Here, in the capital, I recommend:
La Torta Brava
5 de Mayo 63 (3 doors from the Zócalo), Centro
Open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.
Considering its age, which is close to 85 , La Torta Brava should certainly know how to do tortas right. It was recommended to me by the late Josefina Howard, founder of Rosa Mexicano, New York’s first high-class Mexican restaurant. Josefina was gracious to sit down with me, back in 1987 and make a list of her favorite D.F. spots, many of which I cherish to this day. This was at a time when guides to eating here were non-existent; perhaps a seed was planted in my brain then to write the first one. I do remember that I had never heard of tortas and that she insisted I try them.
Tortas Poblanas
Ayuntamiento 25, (near Mercado San Juan) Centro
This is a tiny corner storefront near the Mercado San Juan that serves simple tortas of freshly baked pierna (roast pork leg) or pavo (turkey).
La Texcocana
Independencia 8-A, near Balderas and the Museo de Arte Popular, Centro
Branch: Hamburgo 281, between Toledo and Sevilla, Zona Rosa
These are small bars with stools that serve only tortas and have been doing so since 1935. They offer an unusual sardine torta, queso fresco with avocado (a good vegetarian option), tortas of bacalao (salt cod) and carnitas.
Tortas El Cuadrilátero
Luis Moya 73, near Ayuntamiento, Centro
Open daily 10 a.m. - p.m.
Owned by a retired wrestler named El Super Astro, this fonda specializing in tortas is decorated with lucha libre paraphernalia such as masks, photos and his prizes. The torta “Gladiador” weighs a kilo; order it at your own risk. Other options are more reasonably sized, but are also large enough to share.
Don Polo (1958)
Felix Cuevas 86 (near Av. Coyoacán) Colonia Del Valle
Open daily 7 a.m. – 11:30 p.m.
A beloved old-fashioned institution in Del Valle, this huge place offers great tortas de pavo or pierna amongst others, accompanied with licuados made with a choice of fresh fruit. There is counter as well as take-out service.
La Barraca Valenciana
Centenario 91, 2 blocks up from the main plaza, Coyoacán
This modest chef-driven tortería, with a Spanish/Argentine influence, serves some unusual vegetarian choices of mushroom or eggplant tortas, as well as the house special, chopped calamar, dressed with chimchurri, the typical Argentine parsley, garlic and olive oil sauce.
A torta ahogada served with 2 salsas
El Pialadero de Guadalajara
Hamburgo no. 332
Tel. 5211- 7708
Open daily from 9 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.
This is a full restaurant featuring the cooking of the state of Jalisco. Here you can sample the famous Tapatio torta ahogada which is bathed in fragrant, picante salsa.
Tortas Been
Inside the pasaje at República del Salvador 152, a few blocks east of the Zócalo
Open Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 7 p.m., closed Sunday
This strange pasaje features stalls selling both Middle Eastern foods (where one can pick up some vewry good olives) and Mexican folkloric costumes. The torta stand at the right as you enter has great tortas of pavo and pierna and attracts crowds.
Tortas de Bacalao Lagunilla
Calle González Bocanegra, near Reforma, Centro
Open Sundays only
This legendary stand offering tortas or tacos of bacalao and cochinita pibil sets up every Sunday in the antiques section of the Lagunilla flea market. Accompanied with an horchata de coco from the stand nearby, they are exquisite!
Tortas al Fuego
Sonora 205, near Avenida Amsterdam, Condesa
Supposedly open 24 hours
This is an inexpensive, down-to-earth place offering great tortas - I love the torta de pierna con queso (roast pork). Tacos al pastor are also good here. There are tables inside and out.
Angelopolitano
Puebla 371, near the corner of Sonora, Colonia Roma Norte
Tel. 6391-2121 / 6391-2020
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1 – 10 p.m., Sunday until 7 p.m., closed Monday
In the city and state of Puebla, south east of Mexico City, tortas are called cemitas. The roll is larger, a bit spongy and lightly sweet. At Angelopolitano, cemitas are served on their eponymous and very fresh buns, dotted with sesame seeds. That of mole verde is the best I have sampled anywhere. Chicken bathed in this nut and green chili based sauce is blanketed with shredded Oaxaca cheese and avocado. A hint of the perfumy cilantro-like herb pápalo can be detected.
La Casa del Pavo
Calle de Motolinia 40, Centro
Open daily 11 a.m. - 7 p.m.
As its name implies, this ancient, preserved-in-time place, recently featured in the film Roma, serves nothing but turkey: tortas, tacos, breast on a plate, in soup, and with mole. If you missed Thanksgiving, or just wish for Christmas in July, come here. I love the torta, shmeared with guacamole and accompanied with spiky pickled vegetables.
La Esquina Del Chilaquil
Alfonso Reyes 139, at the corner of Tamaulipas, Condesa
Open daily 8 a.m. - 1 p.m.
This corner stand is has become legendary for its tortas filled with chilaquiles. People line up for this carb-fest…be prepared to wait.
La Esquina Del Chilaquil
a torta de chilaquiles
